Recently we travelled to Alba, the white truffle capital of the world.
We visited during the White Truffle Fair, and the town was absolutely buzzing.
While some people see Alba as the more commercialised truffle festival, it’s full of history and tradition. Alba’s connection to truffles goes back centuries the surrounding Langhe hills have been famous for their wild Tuber magnatum Pico (the white truffle) since Roman times. The modern fair began in the 1920s as a way to celebrate the region’s prized truffle and has grown into one of the most respected truffle events in the world. This town lives for truffles, and the white truffle is genuinely a way of life for the locals.
On our first night we were greeted by the truffle procession the “Donkey Palio Parade.” Drums were banging and people paraded through the streets in their historical outfits. The parade is a huge part of Alba’s identity. Each neighbourhood (or “borgo”) dresses in medieval costume and competes in both performance and pageantry. There are flag-throwers, drummers, musicians, and groups reenacting scenes from Alba’s past. Some sections are serious and theatrical, others are loud and full of energy, and occasionally completely chaotic in the best way.
The donkey race itself is symbolic and lighthearted donkeys are famously unpredictable, which is half the fun. Crowds gather to cheer on their chosen borgo, and the atmosphere is amazing. The whole event brings the town together, young and old, all celebrating their history and their love of truffles. I absolutely loved it, anywhere they love truffles as much as I do, I feel right at home!
We visited the truffle fair and yes, the prices were expensive inside. But it’s an experience. It’s very cool to walk around looking at stunning truffles, mountains of porcini mushrooms, and trying different Langhe and Barolo wines. You can also visit the truffle museum here. If you’re a truffle lover and already in Alba, you might as well tick it off the list it’s very reasonable to go in (make sure you get the wine tasting ticket) But if you’re looking to buy a white truffle and you’re not a millionaire, I’d recommend buying somewhere else in town you’ll get something at a much more reasonable price.
Next, onto the food! I had so much white truffle on eggs, pasta, risotto honestly, it was amazing. The truffle dishes in Alba are very simple, often just topped with a bit of alpine butter so you can really experience the taste and aroma of the white truffle. They also have a traditional pasta called tajarin, a very thin spaghetti like pasta. I absolutely loved it freshly cooked with butter and white truffle shaved over the top. I think it’s one of the best ways to try it!
If you’re in Alba, definitely visit the vineyards and do some wine tasting. I had some of the best wines of my life while I was there. We visited a great vineyard in La Morra, and I even proposed at the Belvedre di La Morra (a proper truffle hunter’s proposal!).
Honestly, it was a great experience. If you’re a truffle hunter or just a food and wine lover, it’s definitely worth the visit. The town is beautiful, and you won’t hear many English voices around. Yes, the truffle fair is a bit more commercialised, but aside from that it feels very authentic.